Got the itch this weekend to get back in the workshop and finish up some old projects. I had cut the playing fields for these boards a while back, but never finished them. Probably a little discouraged when the first board took so long to sell. After getting an order for a new board, and a good idea for playing pieces, I took the dive and finished these up. All four boards have a maple and walnut playing field, but each one has a unique border and are available now in my Etsy shop.
Three are wrapped in cherry, with white oak inlays around the board. Something new I had not tried before. The fourth is wrapped in mulberry, with no inlays. Finished with oil, lacquer and wax. Pieces are black and white simulated stone; great finish, feel and weight to them.
Board 1 in Cherry and Oak Inlay with round corners.
Board 2 in Cherry and Oak Inlay with round corners.
Board 3 in Cherry with Oak Lattice and square corners.
Board 4 with Mulberry frame and square corners.
Not a full book review, but I’m reading Why We Make Things and Why It Matters by Peter Korn. The most striking parts of this book are reading the actual genesis of my favorite hobby, woodworking, in America. I grew up in a time where watching New Yankee Workshop on PBS was a given. Woodworking was a viable and available hobby, with supporting magazines, TV shows and shops; but Peter Korn relives a time when tools had to be ordered from England, and the skills of the trade had to be relearned. Today, I appreciate the instant availability of information and experience that YouTube provides! If you are interested in Maker Culture, this is the beginning.
Also available in a Kindle Edition!
Over Memorial Day weekend, we installed a new solid maple floor in a room in our house. More on that process here. What was left was a slight mismatch between the 130 year old narrow-strip oak flooring and the new floor. Instead of buying a threshold to match the new floor, I opted to build one that would tie the look of the old floor into the new.
The gap between the surfaces was about 5/8″ so typical 1x lumber wouldn’t leave enough thickness; so I dug into the scrap pile and found a remnant of an old barn beam I picked up and had resawn to 5/4″ thick. The grain and pores in this piece look like Chestnut; but I’m not certain. The first step was to joint, plane and square up the board into an appropriate blank; about 5/4″ x 4″ wide.
With the blank milled, I marked out the rabbet to match the floor. The depth is critical for a good fit, but the width is up to the aesthetics. I chose this size to not overpower the trim around the door and still leave a good surface to contact the original floor… it’s all eyeballing. Same goes for the taper; I think this is about 20 degrees, but I knew where I wanted it to start and end based on my own application. I set the table saw blade to match my lines and ripped away.
Using a router to round off the corners wasn’t an option, because none of the surfaces are square to each other. I used a block plane to dress the edges to my liking and sanded slightly. I keep a low angle block plane handy for quickly dressing the edges on pieces like this, and with some practice you can make a very even round-over. A quick coat of Danish Oil and Wipe On Poly and I was ready to install.
Fitting the threshold around the door frame trim took some careful measuring, but simple straight cuts using a pull saw gave a great fit. Held down with some ring-shank nails and filled the holes – and this project is done!
Tools used in this post:
Wrapping up the community table on a hot weekend afternoon was not the most pleasant, but I wanted to keep my delivery promise! In keeping with the rustic and industrial feel, I didn’t want an overly dark stain or to wash out the grain too much; but my client wanted something darker. I stuck with my favorite finish for wood, Danish Oil, and found a Dark Walnut from Watco that I really liked the look of on the white oak. The open grain of the oak had me a little worried that normal paste wax would leave light colored flecks, so I also picked up a can of Special Dark Finishing Wax from Minwax. I’m really happy with how that product worked out, and excited to try it on some traditionally dark woods, like walnut and maybe cherry.
Using oil finishes is easy, just brush or rag on the finish and wipe off the excess. It dries quickly, and deals with high humidity well. I find the color to be more stable and durable than stain, and it ages beautifully. To keep the opening on the can clean, I pour what I need into a disposable mixing cup. Lately, though, I’ve been using a glass beaker. The 600mL beakers are large enough to get your hand into, and I can pour the unused finish back into the can. And anything that’s reusable is good in my book! The only thing to be wary of with oil finishes (and polyurethane, too) is the solvent in the finish will eat through latex gloves, so spend the extra dollars and get some good nitrile gloves.
The next step in building this monster table was the legs. I opted to glue up 4 inch square blank rather than try and source a single 4×4 post. This let me incorporate some of the knots and rustic look of the white oak without sacrificing stability. After gluing up the legs, I planed them square; muscling these 35 pound blanks around was definitely a forearm workout!
After the leg blanks we glued, planed and cut to length, it was time to start laying out the stretchers between them. I chopped out some jumbo-sized dadoes on to connect the two legs together. This let me glue the the legs together and keep from using any visible fasteners, while taking less time than a through-mortise. I scribed the lines using a basic combination square, I like my 6″ Irwin Square for most work. The sides of the dado get cut, my table saw is a little too small to manages these pieces, so I used a hand saw. Any rigid back-saw will work, but I prefer a Japanese Dozuki style pull saw. After cutting the edges, all that is left is to chop out the waste with a sharp chisel and mallet. Make sure your chisels have a metal ring around the butt of the handle, like this Stanley Bailey Chisel set. The ring helps the handle hold up to repeated mallet strikes.
With the legs and stretchers glued, I could clean up the ends and glue squeeze out. That’s not glue on the bottom side… it’s sweat! The weekend I had to build this table was over 90 degrees, and the garage shop was a hot box in the mid-afternoon. At this point I also added a chamfer across the bottom of the legs, where they touch the ground. I also knocked off the corners at the edge of my dado to give a little detail and accent to the joinery.
Legs, plus a giant top… pretty much makes a table! With the random length boards for the top, gluing this panel up was a pain. I used pocket screws to pull the boards together end-to-end, making up long planks from multiple boards. With a lot of careful hand planing, I could glue each of these hybrid planks with a minimal glue joint. Lots of squeeze out though. I added each plank one by one, building up the panel from the center. I have a number of these 36″ Bessey Bar Clamps, but by the end, it took every long clamp I had to hold it all together!
Final steps on the top were to clean up the glue, with a good sharp chisel. I cut the ends square using a circular saw; nothing glamorous. Then it was time to sand. I really like my Bosch random orbit sander. The variable speed is nice, and lets you control how aggressive it is. I find a slower speed on higher grit paper keeps swirl marks to a minimum. I’ve found good luck using Mirka paper, and the price is right for 50 count boxes. I sanded the top to 180 grit, and it was time to assemble!
I’ve been silent for a while, but I’ve certainly been busy. In July, I was invited to design and build a community style lunch table for an marketing agency downtown. They had moved offices into a newly renovated space in an older building in downtown Columbus, but lost a lot of the vintage character from their old space. The new kitchenette and lunch space was wide open, and they needed a BIG community lunch table that pulled together the reclaimed barn-siding shelving that was already installed.
With a very short delivery window, I had just over a week to design, build, deliver and install a bistro height table with a 36″ by 96″ top. After a few design sketches, client picked the random length, staggered board top. No CAD models for this project, it was all pencil and paper for design; with my 0.5mm mechanical pencil and Moleskin notebook, it was like sketching in college all over again.. This is one of the first projects I’ve build exactly to someone else’s ideas. After agreeing on a price Friday afternoon, Saturday morning was off to the mill.
I opted for white oak to give both an industrial feel and some substantial heft to the piece. White oak is is an open grain wood, and ring porous; but differing from red oak in that the pores are plugged. The plugged pores make white oak water and rot resistant, and has made it the wood of choice for many industrial pallets and even wooden ships. For a few books on identifying and selecting wood for projects, consider The Wood Book, by Romeyn B. Hough and Understanding Wood: A Craftsman’s Guide to Wood Technology, by R. Bruce Hoadley.
After loading up the Subaru, I think we might be in the market for a truck! But, we successfully brought the load home, with a few bonus pieces of black walnut… The first step was breaking down all the planks into the shorter sections for the legs, apron, stretchers and rails. This project definitely put my Ridgid jobsite saw through a work out, and I’m sure in for a blade sharpening! When this project is done, I’ll be upgrading to either the Ridgid R4512 or the Delta 36-725, but more on that later…
Stay tuned, and we’ll look at the legs, top and finishing!
Over Memorial Day Weekend, we took on our first major house renovation. Our house was build in 1880, and has had two additions and been converted back and forth between a duplex and a single family home at least once over its 135 year life. One of the additions is a room off the kitchen, but it’s pretty isolated from the rest of the house, so our solution was to cut a door between the ‘bonus’ room and the dining room.
After deciding to take this on, we learned from the previous owners that there used to be a doorway in this exact spot! When we opened up the wall, we definitely found the replaced studs, they’re easy to pick out since they’re not older than time… The wall itself was framed with rough cut 2×6’s with another inch of original tongue and groove sheathing on the outside. This was one of the original exterior walls of the house. The boss got to channel her inner ‘Flip or Flop’ and take a hammer to the drywall.
After chopping out the drywall, and discovering the questionable lack of a header… there was some framing to do. Cripple studs, a new laminated header and jack studs all went in to frame out the new doorway to the dining room. This went surprisingly well, I left the original studs in place, and used that dimension to size out the new old door.
This is where things got out of hand! With the two of us on a roll, we turned around and ripped out a layer of floating cork flooring, followed by a layer of parquet tiles and underlayment plywood! It was a late night, but finished everything up around midnight on Saturday! We definitely put our squat muscles to the test, with the help of a couple pry bars!
Sunday morning we pick out new flooring: Coastal Maple. A light grey color gave the airy feel we wanted for the room. The rest of the first floor is all narrow strip oak, and we didn’t want to give any impression we were trying to match. By Sunday evening, I was done with the flooring stapler, and we had a new floor.
I’m a huge dork, and it was time for a beer! Stay tuned for more on trimming out the doorway to match the rest of the house, and my struggles in coping all the molding!